Languedoc producers shunning "stifling" AOC system
An increasing number of winemakers from the Langudeoc are abandoning the AOC system, frustrated by its archaic and stifling restrictions, in favour of the generic Vins de France brand.
This enables French producers to blend wines across different regions to produce wines consistent in quality and style.
“France is one of the largest wine producers in the world, and they make some of the most famous wines in the world, yet many wine drinkers in France do not know grape varieties,” said Valérie Pajotin, director of Anivin de France.
While growers can’t be forced to switch allegiances from their traditional appellations, producers in the Languedoc region are increasingly shunning restrictive appellation regulations in favour of supposedly inferior designations.
It is this freedom to make wines outside the AOC system that many producers regard as the region’s best selling point.
“It’s vital to remember that the Languedoc has fewer traditions to respect than, say, Burgundy, and so winemakers in the region are far more willing to experiment and innovate than in other parts of France,” Jean-Claude Mas, owner of Domaines Paul Mas told Wine Searcher.
Another winemaker in the region, Ruth Simpson of Domaine Sainte Rose, concurs. “The appellation system is extremely limiting and outdated with regard to the varieties you are allowed to grow, and the viticultural and winemaking trends you can apply,” she said.
"Our rationale was that we wanted to grow grapes and make wines that the marketplace demanded, not what the appellation system said should be made."
She has decided to move the winery’s sparkling wines into the Vin de France category, due to what she describes as “ridiciulous political wrangling” between the IGP ruling body and the Crémants de France ruling body.
And there lies commercial sense as much as idealism behind this approach of the new wave of winemakers. All too aware that the French are still largely dismissive of the concept of premium Languedoc wines, many producers are focusing on key export markets instead.
“France is still a very traditional market, and French consumers have not historically ascribed any real value to wines from the Languedoc,” said Mas.
Being unshackled from the AOC system undoubtedly gives winemakers more choice and freedom, with producers able to highlight the grape variety on the label, rather than the region, which is a key purchasing clue for young wine consumers.
Today, there are more than 350 AOC’s in France, a system which was first introduced in the 1930’s when the INAO – the Institut national des Appellations d’Origine was formed. The organsiation is responsible for regulating thousands of products of origin, and for maintaing quality standards, in addition to defining regional boundaries and controlling production methods.